The Beginning of the Stylists' Century
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I’ve been writing about fashion and its achievements for over 5 years, but always with a liberty of words that cannot be used for historical retrospectives. This is not the review of a show or of the latest discoveries in a designer’s studio; it is instead the aged, bizarre story of the beginning of the modern fashion industry.
As you can imagine, it all started in Paris: more precisely, at the Universal Exhibition of 1900, in the Elegance Pavilion . At that time, couture communication was already like it is today, with big houses such as Worth and Doucet dressing the stars of the time, mostly theatre actresses.
But that wasn’t always the case: during the XVIIIth century, designers were considered more like artisans and were far removed from the sparkling glory that stylists enjoy today. It was only at the end of the century that they fundamentally changed their approach to the profession by becoming great public relations managers and image directors. The first designer to adopt this method was Charles Frederic Worth, an Englishman. His designs weren’t particularly innovative, but his marketing strategy was revolutionary.
At the dawn of the new century, all the designers still kept a rather conservative approach. In fact, design-wise, there was nothing new at the 1900 exhibition. But the air of modernity had already started… The person in charge of all the events at the Elegance Pavilion was a woman: Jeanne Paquin, herself a stylist The looks that were presented were still in that infernal S-like shape, which covered up the entire body. That style revealed nothing, and imposed a specific body position. Women were prisoners of Fashion.
But thanks to the influence of star dancers like Isadora Duncan and Mata Hari , the understanding of the female body started to change and to gain liberty of movement. You could say that they gracefully advanced the women’s liberation movement through art… Painters and illustrators did not waste much time either, as a new style was born thanks to artists such as Andre Derain , Erte , Raoul Dufy , and Iribe.
The stylist that first designed a new type of dress was Paul Poiret. He declared that “the fashion world needs a tyrant”, and that it would be up to him to decide what elegance was. In 1906, inspired by Art Nouveau and the Directoire style , as well as by the British artists fighting for women’s rights, Poiret designed a new dress free of corsets and constructive shapes. “The Wave”, as he named it, was a high-waisted, straight, long dress that moved along with the body in a natural flow. Eventually, his designs evolved towards a more revealing line: he created the bra, generalized low cuts and shortened the skirt.
The next big influences in the evolution of fashion were Russia and oriental elements, thanks to the incredible Russian ballet director Diaghilev .The exuberant baroque productions of Scheherazade and The Blue God changed Parisian society forever, and opened the stage to incredible achievements. Parisian society was not only ready for, but actually demanded, modernity, novelty and freedom. Poiret knew how to take the lead, and his designs revolutionized Haute Couture forever, leaving a freshly created base for new generations of stylists to start from.
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