A Belgian Story

TarcisVerfaillie: Every Saturday, we buy a 2lb box of chocolates, just the tradition… When we have visitors, we have something to offer, and when we do not have visitors, we might have a little more for ourselves, and sometimes, the box lasts till the next weekend… In Belgium, we love our chocolate. Usually adults have a couple of pieces with coffee in the early afternoon; yes our parents allow us some too. As a kid, chocolate is irresistible, mind you that some have been prepared with liquor, so we don’t just grab a chocolate. If feel very fortunate that I was educated with a fine pallet for chocolate and I am glad to pass it on. The wonderful thing about taste is that people do recognize it as if it sits somewhere dormant in the back of the brain… so I am just bringing it out.

Angel Child: Europeans usually identify two great chocolate producers: Switzerland and Belgium. As a Belgian producer, how do you perceive this?

TV: Belgium always was ahead of the game with regards to chocolate (because of the initial connection with Spain, yeah!), I would say especially dark chocolate… though now with the European Union, in terms of business, you can see headquarters established more in Switzerland and the UK, my guess is taxes…
But important to notice is that every country has a particular “basic” taste of chocolate. I have to admit that Belgian dark chocolate is my favorite.

AC: What I love about Belgian chocolate is that most it is still hand-made. Is this labeling mostly a marketing tool, or does it have a real effect on the quality of the product?

TV: How many chocolate shops do you know in LA? OK, there are 10.5 million people in LA… there are 10.5 million people in all of Belgium… we have 2300 chocolate shops, so you could say it is our “culture” since I am sure you cannot imagine 2300 chocolate shops in LA… I know that my chocolate is hand made… yes, there is a lot of marketing… Some chocolate “factories” in Belgium are created with foreign capital, to use the name Belgium… and businesses here are using all kinds of shortcuts to get Belgium in the labeling… Either it is partially made in Belgium, or Quality Control is done in Belgium… Name a country… Vietnam, Canada, Ireland… all make Belgian chocolate… very sad… As far as hand made, you will know the difference, do not expect hand-made chocolates in super markets…

AC: Today, the chocolate products we find in supermarkets are usually of a very poor quality and made with artificial ingredients, such as hydrogenated oil and high fructose corn syrup. Do you know when chocolate started being industrially produced? Does industrial production necessarily entail the use of unhealthy ingredients? Why has this evolution been accepted, and even embraced, by the public?

TV: The FDA here allows for much more additives in food than in Belgium for example. Also, the USA’s business model is the bottom line, sorry to say… if I ask you what the most expensive ingredient in Chocolate is, what would you guess??? It is the cocoa butter, which makes more profit being sold to cosmetics and pharmaceutics… so take that out, add some hardened (hydrogenated) palm or coconut oils, or milk fat… The cheapest ingredient in chocolate is… you guessed it also: sugar… so just put plenty in there right? Good Belgian dark chocolate has less than half of the sugar compared to the chocolate made here… even the milk or white chocolate from back home is a lot less sweet…
Not sure what the answer is, but food ethics and the financial bottom line are not working hand in hand as you know…

AC: We keep hearing that sweets are not good for children. Do you think this is true for high-quality sweets made with natural ingredients? Do you believe the chocolate you sell can be a part of a healthy diet?

TV: If I give my kids a treat, I prefer they have chocolate than anything else, at least I know what the ingredients are.
The FDA is constantly bombarded with lobbyists… no need to explain, you can see the result on the labeling of most pre-packaged foods…

AC: I always associate childhood with chocolate, especially because it is a part of so many holiday celebrations and birthday parties. Why is such a festive aura attached to chocolate?

TV: Chocolate is the food of the gods right??? History, tradition, cocoa beans were once synonymous with currency, it has been a forbidden drink, an elite drink…

AC: Growing up, I learned that a certain type of chocolate is important for women. Is this a myth?

TV: I love it when traditions that are 1000 years old first are trashed because of a press release where is stated this or that… then half a year later it is the best thing there is… Science is good to confirm what tradition has proven for thousands of years, ha ha…

AC: What about chocolate competitions? Do you know a lot about this small circle of people who create new recipes and nominate star chocolate creators?

TV: I am very much open to tasting new things, though I always end up with some more classic flavors… If you speak about creating in terms of the decorative aspect of chocolates or the use of chocolate on cakes, I am very impressed with what has been presented… my bottom line though will always be taste...

AC: When does the beauty of the product start to be more important than its gustative appeal? There are chocolate creations we are truly reluctant to destroy no matter how delicious they are….

TV: I have seen bunnies that are 1 ½ time the size of a human… I have seen a fashion show with a dress of chocolate… I have seen paint brushed chocolate pieces that look like jewels… I have no problem with a healthy balance between art and taste.

AC: Can a producer recognize his or her signature in chocolate bonbons?

TV: For sure.

AC: Tell us more about your store: what made you want to combine a chocolate shop with a coffee house?

TV: Honestly? I started as a chocolate shop only, but quickly discovered that people did not dare to come in… LA is a “diet” city, even looking into my store, one could gain weight… so (good) coffee is a good excuse to come in, glance and perhaps buy a gift for somebody else first… That is kind of how it goes…

AC: You have three children. Did they play a role in your choice of business?

TV: Not really… I love my children and I am still working on ways to be able to have more time with them, having a business takes up a lot of time. Though my kids are proud that daddy has a chocolates shop, they love to come here… and when they do, they know the rule… 3 pieces… that’s it 

AC: Do you use different recipes when you make chocolate for children rather than adults?

TV: My advice to any parent is this: right away get your children to be used to dark chocolate… they do not know the difference? It is the adults that introduce it to them right? Much healthier.

AC: How do Californian customers appreciate Belgian chocolate? Do they know about it before coming into your shop?

TV: I am very fortunate to have a wonderful client base, who appreciate what I have, they all make “my” day, but of course in return I sell good chocolate…

AC: Are there many American chocolate makers? What is the specificity, if any, of American artisans in the field?

TV: I am always amazed with the courage and enthusiasm of the people here, there is definitely more invention here, but what is missing somehow is balance, it is more about “how crazy can I go” to get noticed then really the taste, well, that is how I see it…
Ultimately taste is what people will remember, if something was good, you will never forget. I am always very appreciative when a customer reveals that it has been 3 years since they came to my store, but they did not forget the taste, and as a matter of fact, they are almost afraid of tasting something, because they do not want to be disappointed that it would taste less than what they remember… very powerful isn’t it?
I am very fortunate: my customers are always smiling…